GIAN CARLO'S RISTORANTE,

From Providence, the trip to Gian Carlo's is only about 20 minutes of straight highway driving. But once inside, you may feel as though you boarded a plane and traveled through several time zones to reach your destination. The dining area, with its gilt-framed artwork and period curios, has a distinct European feel. Baskets of fresh Italian bread with extra virgin olive oil come with the meal, while the bruschetta appetizers are delightfully crispy and garlicky. The pasta descriptions are revealing. White onions in one preparation, but Vidalia in another. "A hint of truffle oil" in a $12.95 spaghetti dish. The risotto di mare ($16.95) is the best I've tasted in years, the rice infused with a seafood broth and creamy but not over-cooked. There are plenty of scallops and in-shell mussels, plus three fat grilled shrimp and fresh basil. The "hint of Champagne" noted in the menu isn't lost in the flavors, offering more than a pampering touch. The pollo e gambieri alla griglia ($21.95)'s twin breasts are thick enough to remain moist, and the four skewered shrimp are daubed with an arugula pesto, for a novel variation. The earthiness of the green doesn't come across as fully as I'd anticipated, even when tasted alone, but nevertheless works well with the smoky shrimp. Accompanying is a grilled onion, fresh spinach in a balsamic vinaigrette, and buttery garlic mashed red bliss potatoes. A fine medley, especially when I use the lemon wedge on the chicken as well as on the shrimp . . .

Full review.